The airport at Kota Kinabalu is new - just one long shiny corridor, really.We sat at the gate for ages- we could have got up an hour later. But then you never know, I know. There was this incredible gale blowing out of the air con; everyone huddled up in the seats furthest away from it. Someone remarked that this is the other-way-round-country: you wrap up when you go inside.
A quick, 40-minute flight took us across the island to Sandakan, on the northern edge of Sandakan Bay and with the Sulu Sea outside and beyond. This little town was practically bombed out of existence during WWII, and was rebuild in what would seem a rather haphazard manner. The main industry of the area is palm oil. And the second is .... Ecoturism! That's what we were up to. We were met at the airport by two guides and boarded some buses. I know you are all dying to find out what happened to our suitcases. Well, they came on the bus, too. So far so good. The guide in our bus was a good-looking tall young man with a fashionable haircut - i e no hair at all. He made a roll-call which turned out sweet and funny, since he used all our christian names, Mrs Ninni, Mrs Agneta etc. The last one to be called up was Mrs Eric. Well, that turned out to be himself. Our first stop was Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center. The center was established in 1964 and occupies 43 square kilometres of primal rain forest. Here, orphaned and injured orangutans are "rehabilitated" and eventually reintroduced into their natural habitat. Orang means man and utan means forest or jungle. They serve them mostly bananas, and when they eventually get bored with this diet, they start looking for more interesting things to eat, further and further afield. We walked on boardwalks in quite stifling heat to a place where there is a feeding platform. Feeding was not due to take place for about 45 minutes; in the meantime we were entertained by quantities of macaques (monkeys), who were not shy and ..erm.. procreated happily, albeit in very brief bursts. We had plenty of time to talk - and, thankfully, sit, as well. Eric's way of calling us by title + christian name had sparked a discussion on how we address each other, across the globe. Low wires were suspended across the jungle to the platform and as feeding time approached (do the orangutans have watches?) two females, each with a baby holding on to their bellies for dear life, came swinging along the wires. The macaques were gone by now, waiting in the wings. A ranger emptied a bucket of bananas and some papaya and the two ladies started eating. The one on the right from where I was standing got hold of all the papaya and hid it behind her; but as you know, these animals have very long arms and the other girl managed to get one or two little pieces of papaya, sneaking her bendy arms behind. Then the male arrived. He seemed very aware of his audience and all the cameras snapping away; he leant casually against the pole in the middle of the platform, cool as a cucumber, and, of course, ate all the papaya. He then took whole bunches of bananas and slurp, they were gone!
After all that excitement we walked back to the cafe at the entrance. We saw some more orangutans in the trees; someone saw a snake. It was really nice to have a cup of tea and some biscuits - breakfast seemed a distant memory. It was only now that I realised that we were being divided into two groups. I am sometimes a bit slow on the uptake. One group was going to do things in a particular order for the next few days, and the other group the same things but in reverse order. Not that it mattered. I had decided to go with the flow.
We were now taken to Sim-Sim harbour, which is surrounded by a sprawling village, built on the sea. We later found out that this is where Eric grew up. The harbour was a strange place; M. from Switzerland and I agreed that it was hard to make out what it was. We walked through something that looked like a front room with vast old-fashioned sofas, but then there was a long fish-tank with seriously menacing-looking fish inside; then a big old refrigerator, then wooden chairs with people in deep conversation; it all lead out to a jetty where the boats were waiting. There were 24 in our group and we were divided up between two boats. I knew everyone in my boat, bar one or two and although conversation was a bit difficult most of the time, it was really nice to be with that gang. We spent a lot of time on those boats.
Eric had had Swedish visitors before, I think. Spot my bag!
So, out and across Sandakan Bay and then the trip up the Kinabatangan River started. We made our first stop after about an hour, at Abai Jungle Lodge, where we had lunch.
The food was good; the food was good all the time, though we got the same dishes, more or less, at every meal (except breakfast). Fried rice, chicken in a well-seasoned sauce, sometimes lamb, often fish and nearly always prawns. Stir-fried green vegetables, sweetcorn a few times and always fresh fruit for pudding. However, we now faced another wine moment. I do not remember the actual sequence of things, but we soon realised that the staff at the two jungle lodges had not counted on providing for 42 thirsty Swea:s. We found at first that there was a solitary bottle of Merlot, kept in the fridge, at Abai Jungle Lodge; but somehow some more was procured. At the next lodge (we'll get there soon) they had a few bottles, proudly presented to us: "this is WHITE wine and this is RED wine. " K from California organised the white wine to be cool and the red wine to be brought to room temperature. And when we returned to Abai the next day, there was plenty there too. There is no land/road connection to Abai, so some how the grapevine ("Jungle drum in Swedish!!) must have worked all the way back to Sandakan.
Another longish - about 1 1/2 hours - boat ride took us to our lodgings for the night - Sukau Riverside Lodge.
The whole lodge complex is build on boardwalks and shoes were to be shed almost immediately on alighting from the boat - but we could put them on again for walking to our cabins. It is a really pretty place, with masses of flowers growing in between the boardwalks, on the banks of the little streams that run in and out through the area.
The first thing we saw after getting off the boats was our luggage, neatly standing in rows, waiting for us. This lodge has a road connection and they had been taken there by car, or truck or whatever. I was a relief to know that I would have a slightly wider choice of clothes...
My porch
Cabin bag and short skirts aside, this is supposed to give you that colonial feel........
We were only given a few minutes to unload our stuff before it was time to go on our first river safari. I had read up on Sukau Riverside Lodge and knew it was simple, but spotlessly clean with a comfortable bed. The weather was awful, but it did not actually rain when we set out in smaller, uncovered boats. We travelled at a much more comfortable speed now, along the wide, muddy river. The banks are covered with tall green vegetation, more or less all the way down to the banks. We saw some small villages along the way; many houses on "stilts" and a privy down by the riverside - no need to flush! We saw a large toucan, black-and-white rather than colourful, egrets, cormorants, swallows, and the last day, a colibri. But we were out to see the proboscis monkey, and we saw quite a few! These monkeys have very large noses, and the larger, the better, the females think. In fact, the ones with the biggest noses have proper harems!
It has been a little while since I last updated this blog - it is about time I finished my Malaysian tale! We are getting there.
That evening was sarong night. The sarongs were provided by the lodge and Eric showed us how to put them on. The evening was, however, dominated by the "spa experience" - many of us descended on the little spa and had various massages and ear candleing. I am not sure that was a good idea for me, but I did it, anyway plus a lovely foot massage/reflexology.











